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Maine Antique Digest, March 2015 21-D
- AUCTION -
Chanel suit with jacket of woven
wool, polyester, and rayon in a
maroon, black, cream, and silver
plaid pattern, black sequin trim
bands, and a polyester and nylon
skirt covered in square black
sequins, labeled and from the
estate of Karen Kendle Marshe
and in pristine, unworn condi-
tion. It tripled the low estimate to
bring $1440 from the room.
A beautiful crys-
tal-beaded
apricot
gown from 1922 was
of China silk with
bugle beads in blos-
soms and V patterns
and, despite some
bead losses, sold to a
young man bidding
for a Paris collector
above estimate for
$1020.
This Charles James dress
form from the 1950s of
an ecru linen cloth-cov-
ered torso had “Charles
James” stamped in script
above the breasts and
“Ideal Average” stamped
at the bottom of the form.
The form was on an
adjustable cast-iron four-
claw and wheel stand.
Bidding opened at $475
via the Internet, and it
sold there for $1800 (est.
$400/600).
This Chanel faux polar bear
fur coat of exaggerated length
with a rounded collar to be
worn up or down, five silver
and crystal jeweled buttons,
and two side slash pockets
was one of several Chanel
items in the auction from
the estate of Karen Kendle
Marshe, director of footwear
for Chanel U.S.A. In excel-
lent condition the coat sold to
an Internet bidder for $2520
(est. $800/1200).
John Galliano (b. 1960), for-
mer head designer for Dior,
created this deep purple gown
of devore velvet in a Renais-
sance band pattern, with long
sleeves with a gathered inner
seam and 21 self-covered left-
side buttons. The size 10 gown
from the late 1990s has a plum
chiffon slip, was labeled and
in excellent condition, and
sold above estimate to a bid-
der on Karen Augusta’s phone
for $960.
Bidding was among the room, Internet, and
phones for this circa 1952 Madame Gres
black silk faille evening gown. It has a fit-
ted bodice with a colorful beaded boteh
design, cap sleeves, large full skirt cen-
ter front zipper, a black velvet belt, and
neckline trim. From the Suddon-Cleaver
costume collection and in very good condi-
tion, this gown sold within estimate to the
room for $3480. Madame Gres was born
in Paris, France. She founded her own
fashion business in 1934, then in 1942
reopened her house using the name
Gres. She was partial to jersey,
silk, and wool fabrics, which she
draped and molded into dresses
and gowns in sculptural Greek-
like patterns. Gres painstakingly
worked on her gowns, often for
hours at a time, working the
fabric into pleated configu-
rations that best represented
her design aesthetic. In the
1980s she sold her business
and retired.
This black silk chiffon evening gown
with short, fluted sleeves, embel-
lished with black bugle beads from
the chest to below the knees on a
diagonal flame pattern, has a skirt
bottom with triple chiffon gores. In
very good condition, this gown from
the Sutton-Cleaver costume collec-
tion went to Bob Ross’s phone bidder
against Karen Augusta’s phone bid-
der for $3000 (est. $300/500).
This silk satin aqua lamé sleeve-
less evening gown from the 1930s,
printed in shades of light blue,
aqua, and lavender with gold
lamé brocade, was from the Sud-
don-Cleaver costume collection
and sold to a young man bidding
for a Paris collector at $1680 (est.
$400/600). This Paris collector
has an affinity for lamé gowns,
having won several over the years
at Augusta auctions.
Mingolini Gugen-
heim strapless ball
gown, a 1958-62
example, features
brown lace over
an underdress of
brown silk-covered
horsehair and buck-
ram
foundation,
the lace completely
covered with brown
glass beads and
sequins, a built-in
black net corset,
and matching cropped jacket. In excellent
condition and labeled “Mingolini Gugen-
heim/ Roma,” the gown brought $2520 (est.
$500/800) from an absentee bidder.
This Dior sleeveless couture ball
gown was from Yves Saint Lau-
rent’s first collection for Dior.
Of taupe silk with an empire
bodice, front tie ribbon, white
and gray cloth blossoms, back-
draped scarf, a three-layer bell
skirt, white tulle petticoat, and
built-in corset foundation, the
gown was labeled “Printemps-Ete
1958, Christian Dior Paris” and
stamped “01?65.” From the Sud-
don-Cleaver costume collection
and in very good condition, this
gown came in within estimate for
$5100.
This circa 1950 couture ball
gown from Paquin has ivory
organdy narrow pleats, a fit-
ted bodice with full skirt, black
velvet cord and bow trim, nar-
row velvet ribbon straps, a
neckline trimmed with black-
beaded fringe, and an ivory
silk lining. Labeled “Paquin 3
Rue de La Paix Paris 70097”
and from the Suddon-Cleaver
costume collection, this gown
went to a phone bidder on the
line with Bob Ross for $2160
(est. $600/800).
One of several lots of young wom-
en’s clothing designed by The Fool
collective for the short-lived Beat-
les’ Apple Boutique in London
was this labeled silk dress with
three differing printed and gold
stenciled fabric tiers in green, yel-
low, and aqua Japanese designs
and with balloon wrist-tie sleeves.
Purchased by a young American
woman in February 1968 and
brought back to the United States
but never worn, the dress sold
within estimate to a phone bidder
for $3720. A pants suit (not pic-
tured) of an iridescent kelly-green
matelessé synthetic fabric, with a
cutaway front jacket and side but-
tons, band collar, and a deep back
vent, was also unworn after being
brought back to the United States.
It went to the same phone bidder
at the low estimate for $3600.
Bidding opened at $1900 for this
Apple Boutique psychedelic two-
piece dress from 1968. It is of iri-
descent Lurex and rayon brocade
in rainbow colors patterned in
bands of horizontal waves and
vertical stripes. The long peplum
jacket has three side closures and
flared sleeves. There is yellow
rayon lining in both the jacket and
short skirt. Labeled and in unworn
pristine condition, the dress went
for $3600 to the same phone bid-
der who won the earlier mentioned
Apple Boutique lots.